Luca Rubinacci, third generation of the Neapolitan house Rubinacci, runs his atelier in Milan. A crumpled Borsalino, 342,000 Instagram followers and an apprenticeship at Kilgour on Savile Row: a portrait of the style icon of bespoke culture.
Antica Barbieria Colla was founded in 1904 by Dino Colla and has been at Via Gerolamo Morone, just behind La Scala, since 1943. Hot towels to finish a shave and Marseille-soap shampoos: two Milanese inventions still in use at the address today.
In late summer 2023 Feine Herr visited Musella Dembech in Milan. Francesco Musella, born 1941, started his apprenticeship at the age of nine in Caserta. With his son Gianfrancesco he runs one of the ateliers Simon Crompton has championed for over a decade.
Anna Falkenhagen opened her Hamburg hat store in Schanzenstraße in 1916. Today her great-grandchildren Sabine and Jens Falkenhagen run the business in the fourth generation on Schauenburger Straße, a few minutes from the town hall.
Three years after the first visit, Bernhard Roetzel returns to Milanese shirt tailor Alessandro Siniscalchi for new fittings and new shirts. Nothing has changed in the studio: hand-stitched throughout, the fit refined at every fitting.
Luigi Wollisch founded Petronius in Milan in 1926, named after Nero's arbiter of taste. His daughters Gigliola and Simona Wollisch run the manufactory today, hand-stitching ties, foulards and pocket squares in the basement of an old Milanese building.
Ludwig Reiter I opened his Vienna shoemaker's workshop in 1885, and his great-grandson Til Reiter took over in 1985. Part 1 of the visit to Vienna's last welted shoe manufactory and its 140-year history.
Fabbrica Ombrelli Maglia is the last umbrella manufactory in Milan. Francesco Maglia, nephew of the long-time face of the brand Chino Maglia, has run it since 2019 in the sixth generation, with fabrics woven on Lake Como.
Bernhard Roetzel first heard of Liverano & Liverano in 1999 and visited the Florentine atelier shortly afterwards. On Antonio Liverano, the unpadded sloping shoulders and a style that stays out of the way of time.
Bernhard Roetzel collects a new pair from Viennese bespoke shoemaker Lucian Maftei at the Campe & Ohff shirt shop in Hamburg. The fourth pair, built on a new Budapest-shaped last with stormwelt construction.
Darren Tiernan, Senior Bespoke Cutter bei Budd Shirtmakers in Piccadilly Arcade an der Jermyn Street, im Interview über das House-Pattern, den hochgestellten Forward Collar und 36 Stiche auf dem Inch in der englischen Hemdenfertigung.
Wegen Corona verschoben, nun in Hamburg: Bernhard Roetzel probiert den Probierschuh von Maftei. Was bedeutet es, dass ein Schuh „passt“, und warum ist die Anprobe für Schuhmacher noch schwieriger als für Schneider?
