{"id":19151,"date":"2026-05-28T16:25:24","date_gmt":"2026-05-28T14:25:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/bespoke-shoes-for-beginners\/"},"modified":"2026-08-23T15:30:29","modified_gmt":"2026-08-23T13:30:29","slug":"bespoke-shoes-for-beginners","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/bespoke-shoes-for-beginners\/","title":{"rendered":"Bespoke Shoes for Beginners: The Starter Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<style>\n.postid-19151 .wp-block-gallery.columns-1:not(.is-cropped),\n.postid-19151 .wp-block-gallery.columns-1:not(.is-cropped) .wp-block-image,\n.postid-19151 .wp-block-gallery.columns-1:not(.is-cropped) .wp-block-image img {\n  height: auto !important;\n  max-height: none !important;\n}\n.postid-19151 .wp-block-gallery.columns-1:not(.is-cropped) .wp-block-image img {\n  width: 100% !important;\n  object-fit: contain !important;\n}\n.postid-19151 .wp-block-gallery.columns-1:not(.is-cropped) .wp-block-image {\n  position: relative;\n}\n.postid-19151 .wp-block-gallery.columns-1:not(.is-cropped) figcaption {\n  position: absolute !important;\n  bottom: 0; left: 0; right: 0;\n  margin: 0 !important;\n  padding: 14px 20px 12px;\n  background: linear-gradient(to top, rgba(0,0,0,0.65), rgba(0,0,0,0));\n  color: #fff !important;\n  text-align: center;\n}\n<\/style>\n\n\n\n<p>Many men who wear classic welted shoes dream of bespoke. There are various reasons for it. Some have trouble finding shoes that fit, because of a high instep, feet of markedly different length, or protruding toes. Others hope for a gain in comfort, for more exclusivity and individuality, or for a larger share of hand work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In every case expectations are very high, and disappointment is therefore not rare. A man already familiar with the fit and the feel of welted leather shoes will not be nursing a fundamentally wrong idea. It is different for men who wear almost nothing but trainers and then switch straight to a bespoke leather shoe. The adjustment is very large here, and so is the risk that the bespoke shoe is felt to be hard and uncomfortable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What is a bespoke shoe in the first place?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>In principle a pair of shoes made to fit one person&#8217;s feet. How those shoes are built, by hand or by machine, is not implied by the term. Nor does it say anything about the material. Bespoke shoes can be built in leather or constructed like a trainer. When we talk about bespoke shoes here, we mean shoes built by hand in leather, welted, in classic model shapes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This guide to bespoke shoes for beginners is not meant to explain every method of construction. It is to say what a beginner should look out for when looking for a bespoke shoemaker and then ordering a first pair. Construction and material are therefore not covered exhaustively, only as far as they matter for this subject. Shoe shapes and the names of the models are a side issue here too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Motivation: why bespoke shoes at all?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Anyone thinking about bespoke shoes should first be clear about his motivation. Is it about prestige, status or image? About craft, individuality or originality? Are the shoes meant to solve a problem of fit? Is comfort the priority, or looks? Which direction of style do you generally prefer?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Important for beginners: in reputation, bespoke shoemakers from London, Italy and France lead the field, though Korean and Japanese makers are also highly regarded among people who know. In the German-speaking world, Viennese shoemakers have an exclusive reputation. German shoemakers are used to customers expecting very comfortable bespoke shoes and accepting compromises in looks for them. Italian bespoke shoes are subjectively the most beautiful, but the fit will often not satisfy German and Austrian customers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"18591\" src=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/john-lobb-london-store-front.jpg\" alt=\"John Lobb Gesch\u00e4ft an der St James's Street in London\" class=\"wp-die-erste-bestellung-im-massatelier8591\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">John Lobb, St James&#8217;s Street, London.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"18593\" src=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/aubercy-paris-werkstatt.jpg\" alt=\"Aubercy Pariser Werkstatt f\u00fcr rahmengen\u00e4hte Ma\u00dfschuhe\" class=\"wp-die-erste-bestellung-im-massatelier8593\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Maison Aubercy, Paris.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"18595\" src=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/stefano-bemer-firenze-kumar.jpg\" alt=\"Stefano Bemer Ma\u00dfschuh-Modell Kumar aus Florenz\" class=\"wp-die-erste-bestellung-im-massatelier8595\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Stefano Bemer, Kumar, Florenz.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How much hand work is in it<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>On a finished shoe it is hard to read how much hand work went into it. A hand-sewn inseam, for instance, can no longer be seen. A hand-stitched outsole is likewise hard to tell from a machine-sewn one. Many other steps stay invisible and cannot be felt in wear. The material of the internals, the stiffeners for example, is no longer recognisable either. Whether the maker uses stiffeners in leather, in lefa or in plastic can only be asked about, or seen on a half-finished shoe in the workshop. The parts of the upper are in any case almost always closed by machine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"667\" height=\"1000\" data-id=\"18589\" src=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-1.jpg\" alt=\"Workshop visit to the Viennese bespoke shoemaker Alexandru Maftei\" class=\"wp-image-18589\" srcset=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-1.jpg 667w, https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-1-293x439.jpg 293w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 667px) 100vw, 667px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Lucian Maftei&#8217;s workshop, Vienna. Photo: Tommi Aittala<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Important for beginners: bespoke shoemakers disagree about how much the hand work matters. The opinion usually depends on how the maker in question works himself. Many sew the upper to the insole and welt by hand and attach the outsole by machine. Some do both by hand. Both approaches are craft work and, in the result for the customer, equal. Unless the greater degree of hand work matters to him personally. If it does, then a workshop should be chosen that works accordingly. Makers will as a rule tell you very precisely how they work. Where there is secrecy, be careful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The way it looks<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Until the First World War, good men&#8217;s shoes were largely built by hand to measure. How they fitted and how comfortable they were is hard to say. It is known that many men forced their feet into shoes that were too small or too narrow, for the sake of appearance. Only after the Second World War did bespoke shoemakers emphasise the better fit, in order to set themselves apart from an ever stronger ready-made trade. The basic question, whether a desired shape comes first or a fit that suits the foot and does not deform it, is still with us today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"18599\" src=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/stefano-bemer-firenze-shark.jpg\" alt=\"Stefano Bemer Shark Ma\u00dfschuh in eleganter italienischer Form\" class=\"wp-die-erste-bestellung-im-massatelier8599\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Stefano Bemer, Shark, Florenz.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Important for beginners: depending on your motivation, either the look of the shoe or its comfort comes first. Though the word comfortable allows a great many readings. So-called health shoes are objectively more comfortable than many bespoke shoes, provided they fit properly, and healthier too. They do not crowd the toes, they support the arch and they prevent deformation. A yielding trainer is comfortable as well, though not necessarily good for the foot, because it gives no hold and no support and is made of synthetic material. So examine yourself closely on whether you really want to suffer for the beautiful shape you are dreaming of.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The most important tips for beginners<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1. Inform yourself properly<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Look closely at what is on offer. Get to know the workshops that come into question. Talk to the makers. The personal impression matters more than reviews on the internet. As a rule even the best maker has customers who are disappointed or dissatisfied. The reasons are hard to establish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">2. Proximity before image<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>For the whole process, and for the weeks, months and years after the shoes are delivered, it is very important and very valuable to be able to reach the workshop easily and quickly. It does not have to be in your home town. But then the maker should at least be in the city every few months. Even so it is best if you can drop into the workshop at any time. For questions, alterations, <!-- fh-il:en-start --><a href=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/shoe-repair-boat-shoes-poeschk-berlin\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\">repairs<\/a><!-- fh-il:en-end --> or care.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"18601\" src=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/schuh-bertl-muenchen-massschuh.jpg\" alt=\"Klassischer Ma\u00dfschuh aus der Werkstatt von Schuh Bertl in M\u00fcnchen\" class=\"wp-die-erste-bestellung-im-massatelier8601\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Ma\u00dfschuhe von Schuh Bertl, M\u00fcnchen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">3. Get the communication right<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Anyone determined to order abroad, for whatever reason, should only do so if he can communicate perfectly with the workshop. The success of a bespoke order depends to a large extent on communication, above all the first time. If that is poor because of weak language skills or bad translation, the result is doubtful from the start. And it is not only your own language skills that matter but the maker&#8217;s too. If I speak very good English, my counterpart&#8217;s English need not be equally good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">4. Record every step<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>From our own experience we advise noting down or photographing every step and every detail of the order. Not so much to be able to produce evidence later. Rather to document everything for yourself. Beginners in particular are so excited when their dream is finally coming true that they simply do not take much of it in. And once they are home again, they no longer know exactly what was discussed in detail. Which can be very unsettling at the fitting, at the latest. It concerns the material, the shape, the details of the specification. &#8220;Did I really order a red lining?&#8221; &#8220;Was the toe not supposed to be squarer?&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"667\" height=\"1000\" data-id=\"18597\" src=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-2.jpg\" alt=\"Detail of a bespoke shoe from Alexandru Maftei's workshop in Vienna\" class=\"wp-image-18597\" srcset=\"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-2.jpg 667w, https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-2-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/feineherr.de\/app\/uploads\/2026\/05\/alexandru-maftei-feine-herr-aittala-2-293x439.jpg 293w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 667px) 100vw, 667px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bernhard Roetzel trying on his bespoke shoe by Lucian Maftei. Photo: Tommi Aittala<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">5. Use other people&#8217;s experience<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Many beginners know nobody they can ask for advice. Yet it is very valuable to have someone at your side before and during the order and at the fittings, someone experienced and with no commercial interest in how the collaboration turns out. An experienced friend or acquaintance is probably the best companion. Bespoke coaches can also do good service. Provided they work for a fee and are not counting on a commission from the maker chosen. We offer that kind of bespoke guidance ourselves; if you are interested we are glad to give you terms and prices.<\/p>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Bespoke shoes for beginners: Bernhard Roetzel on motivation, hand work and fit, with five tips for a first order with a bespoke shoemaker.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":18615,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[469,453],"tags":[623,800,799,790],"class_list":["post-19151","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-shoemaker","category-shoes","tag-bespoke-en","tag-bespoke-shoemaker","tag-bespoke-shoes","tag-guides"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19151","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19151"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19151\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19170,"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19151\/revisions\/19170"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/18615"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19151"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=19151"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/feineherr.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=19151"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}