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<\/figure><\/a><\/div><\/figure><\/a><\/div><\/figure><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\nIs it alright to call James Whitfield a \u201cSavile Row tailor\u201d? After all he works in Berlin. I think the label is applicable. James was trained in Savile Row and he\u2019s worked for one of it\u2019s most famous houses. And let\u2019s not forget that most tailoring houses in Savile Row use outworkers from all over London. Only very few shops make everything in house. Unless there is so much work that they cannot cope. Of course all these garments were at least cut in Savile Row and they are fitted there. I believe that a Savile Row trained cutter can cut and fit a suit anywhere in the world resulting in a \u201cSavile Row suit\u201d. Is the jacket that James made for me better than what I\u2019d get in Savile Row? The answer is of course a matter of taste. If you put the quality of fit and making that James offers at his price into relation to what you get in Savile Row for the prices asked at most tailor shops he clearly offers the better deal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/a><\/div><\/figure><\/a><\/div><\/figure><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\nNothing that I could see or feel has changed after the final check of the finished garment. The chest fits snugly with just very little drape. The fit around the shoulder and over the back is excellent. My shoulderbones are discreetly covered with a thin pad. The coat is a bit longer than my recent orders from my tailor in Prague but not as long as the jackets that were made for me in Savile Row by Tobias Tailors. The sleeve lenghts are exactly as I want them. The armhole is smaller and slightly higher than I usually ask tailors to cut it but it feels comfortable. The coat has a slim silhouette and I believe the high waist slighty elongates my figure. The coat looks very british but not old-fashioned unlike many examples I have seen even from younger tailors in Savile Row. The workmanship is excellent, the \u201cMilanese\u201d buttonhole in the lapel couldn\u2019t be done better by a good Italian tailor. As I had mentioned the outworkers of Savile Row I\u2019d like to stress that the coat was completely tailored in James\u2019s workshop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\nAs an addition of my personal impression of the coat I have conducted a short interview with James.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Feine Herr: The jacket you made for me looks so English, an Italian tailor could never cut it this way. What\u2019s the recipe for an English looking bespoke jacket?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n James Whitfield: I think something in both cut and construction gives a jacket that particularly English look. The longer length, the full chest, a more structured shoulder, all of these things contribute to that style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n How much Savile Row is in this jacket and how much James Whitfield?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n It\u2019s a mixture. I have maintained the traditional techniques of cut and construction that I learned there, with some adaptations of my own. I try not to be too high bound by it though, if I find a better way of doing some particular part of the process then I wouldn\u2019t forsake that in the name of tradition necessarily. <\/p>\n\n\n\n