Luigi Wollisch founded Petronius in Milan in 1926, named after Nero's arbiter of taste. His daughters Gigliola and Simona Wollisch run the manufactory today, hand-stitching ties, foulards and pocket squares in the basement of an old Milanese building.
Thomas Mason was founded in Lancashire in 1796 and has belonged to the Albini Group in Albino near Bergamo since 1992, the world's largest maker of fine shirt cloth. Bernhard Roetzel visits the weaving mill to see how the fabrics are made.
Ludwig Reiter I opened his Vienna shoemaker's workshop in 1885, and his great-grandson Til Reiter took over in 1985. Part 1 of the visit to Vienna's last welted shoe manufactory and its 140-year history.
Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke suit from Dawid Kukliński in Berlin, cut from a mid-grey Holland & Sherry covert in the now-discontinued Dakota bundle, a cloth he had wanted to wear for more than twenty years.
Bernhard Roetzel first heard of Liverano & Liverano in 1999 and visited the Florentine atelier shortly afterwards. On Antonio Liverano, the unpadded sloping shoulders and a style that stays out of the way of time.
László Budapest, part of Schwangau Schuh GmbH in Ostallgäu, has its welted shoes built in a Hungarian workshop under its own direction. Bernhard Roetzel reviews the bestseller, the Norwegian Magnus in brown cowhide.
At Ludwig Reiter the made-to-order option is called Privatanfertigung: a ready-to-wear shoe built individually with the customer's choice of leather and sole. Bernhard Roetzel places his order at the factory outlet in Gut Süßenbrunn.
Justo Gimeno, the third in his family of the same name, makes coats, trench coats and the Teba jacket in Zaragoza that his grandfather first produced for Count Teba in the 1920s. He also represents Drake's, William Lockie and Hiltl.
Fabbrica Ombrelli Maglia is the last umbrella manufactory in Milan. Francesco Maglia, nephew of the long-time face of the brand Chino Maglia, has run it since 2019 in the sixth generation, with fabrics woven on Lake Como.
Munich-born master tailor Kathrin Emmer has been cutting bespoke suits in Potsdam for twenty years, for clients from across Germany. A visit to her studio in a quiet detached house near Griebnitzsee, the doorbell sign reads simply Emmer.
Berlin-based bespoke shoemaker Korbinian Ludwig Heß has launched a wooden shoe-care box stocked with Saphir products. In conversation he explains why sparing application matters and how cream and wax paste complement each other.
Bernhard Roetzel reviews a loafer from Simon Wegmann's online bespoke concept Wayman Bespoke: the trial shoe sent by post, the remote measurement process and the fit of the finished pair, ordered without a single physical fitting.












