Rubinacci in Milan: Light elegance
Drei Generationen italienische Schneiderkunst: Von Gennaro bis Luca Rubinacci
Antica Barbieria Colla: Everything for beard and hair
Since 1904 in Milan: barbering tradition, handmade products and a bourgeois institution
Musella Dembech: Exclusive Bespoke Tailors in Milan
Francesco and Gianfrancesco Musella: father and son, bespoke tailors in Milan for decades
Mick Möller runs the Hanover menswear outfitter Mick's with a classic range reinterpreted for today. In our interview he talks about growing up in his parents' shop, his passion for rock 'n' roll and his path into the trade.
Ignatious Joseph, one of the world's best-known shirt designers, on the yellow shirt boxes, the multicoloured shirts with their wide high collar, and the red bespoke shoes he tells people, with a straight face, are from Aldi.
In Part 2 Bernhard Roetzel orders a Tracht-style suit at Lorenz Ganter in Ismaning, cut from Jägerleinen by Leichtfried Loden, with the Bavarian jacket pattern and high-waisted trousers in the style of the 1920s.
Bernhard Roetzel visits Lorenz Ganter, the Tracht specialist in Ismaning near Munich. Dieter Ganter, grandson of the founder, runs the workshop where six seamstresses build Bavarian suits for customers across Germany.
At Ludwig Reiter the made-to-order option is called Privatanfertigung: a ready-to-wear shoe built individually with the customer's choice of leather and sole. Bernhard Roetzel places his order at the factory outlet in Gut Süßenbrunn.
Thomas Mason was founded in Lancashire in 1796 and has belonged to the Albini Group in Albino near Bergamo since 1992, the world's largest maker of fine shirt cloth. Bernhard Roetzel visits the weaving mill to see how the fabrics are made.
Justo Gimeno, the third in his family of the same name, makes coats, trench coats and the Teba jacket in Zaragoza that his grandfather first produced for Count Teba in the 1920s. He also represents Drake's, William Lockie and Hiltl.
Benedikt Fries founded Berlin tie label Shibumi as an online shop eleven years ago. In our interview he explains the Japanese aesthetic concept of restrained elegance and his personal approach to bespoke.
From 31 July to 5 August 2023 the World Federation of Master Tailors held its biennial congress in Biella. Bernhard Roetzel talks to Alfredo de Giglio about the WFMT, founded in Brussels in 1865, and the state of the craft today.
Does a bespoke suit really fit perfectly and last forever? Bernhard Roetzel addresses the most common myths about custom clothing, from the idea of perfect fit to the timeless look and how long a Savile Row suit really holds up.
Bernhard Roetzel presents three suits for early summer 2020: a grey single-breasted from Anton Meyer in Hamburg, cut from Vitale Barberis Canonico worsted, plus two lighter pieces that also work casually.
Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Haspel: Bernhard Roetzel on the American roots of the seersucker suit, the puckered weave that traps cooling pockets of air, and why the fabric was so hard to find in Europe.
Trench coat or slip-on in cotton gabardine, Swiss Etaproof, the old English Ventile: Bernhard Roetzel lays out the spring overcoat classics, including a Ventile Mac by Private White VC and the Amity Jackets piece in Etaproof.
The American cotton sack suit, the Neapolitan linen from Rubinacci, the striped seersucker: Bernhard Roetzel walks through the summer-suit classics, with cuts, fabrics and the context that gave each its character.
After more than 20 years Bernhard Roetzel has ordered trousers with belt-loops again, made by Salon Hartl in Prague. A look back over three decades of trouser cuts, from narrow flat-fronts in Hanover to pleated styles on the Pitti Uomo.
