Bespoke Suit by Dawid Kukliński

It took me almost a year to pick up my new suit from Dawid Kukliński. This was not because the tailor was too slow or too busy. There was simply no point in having the suit ready for the summer. That’s why Dawid Kukliński has now completed the suit for this fall and winter. Due to the long time that has passed since the second fitting, Dawid Kukliński was a little tense before our meeting in Berlin. However, my weight has not changed since the last fitting, so the suit fits very well.

The fabric is a medium gray Covert from Holland & Sherry, which I’ve had with me for about four years. As far as I remember, I found it in the Dakota bundle. As far as I know, it is not currently being issued, which I very much regret. The Dakota bundle was one of those fabric collections from which I could blindly choose fabrics and always be satisfied (as with Alsport by John G. Hardy, for example). For over 20 years I have wanted to have a suit made from Covert, as this fabric is robust, crease-resistant and very attractive with its slightly mottled look.

For a sporty suit, I would choose the color you know from the cover coats with brown velvet collars. For a versatile piece, i.e. a city, country and travel suit, the medium gray cover fabric seemed ideal to me. From a distance it just looks gray, but on closer inspection the typical covert look catches the eye. Eduard Meier used to have a much darker suit made of this fabric with the typical green lining, which was another inspiration for me. However, the gray was too dark for daytime, so I chose the lighter quality. It is of course too light for the evening, but I would still wear the suit in the evening when traveling. A white shirt and black shoes would make me feel properly dressed.

I have already had a linen jacket made by Dawid Kukliński. For the suit, we agreed that the cut should follow the Italian-inspired style of the tailor from Gdynia a little more. So a little narrower at the shoulders and a little closer to the body overall. When I saw the suit on me, it still seemed very much in keeping with my look. I love it when a suit looks like I’ve always had it in my wardrobe. Not in the sense that the suit looks worn out. I rather mean that it seems like a part of me. That definitely applies to this suit. At the same time, the cut is such that I immediately felt at home in it. I practically don’t feel it at all. For some, it might be too far. However, I prefer the suit to be cut in such a way that it is not restrictive when standing, walking or sitting.

Here is the configuration of the suit: three buttons with the top button rolled up. Two side slits. Two pockets inside and a small pocket on the left for a comb and pen. I deliberately don’t have the inside pockets work as tongue pockets, I find it more harmonious for a tailored suit if the inside is very plain. Wide tongue pockets are considered a typical feature of craftsmanship; in fact, tailors used to prefer to keep the amount of fabric used to a minimum and only edged the inside pockets with lining fabric or a small amount of outer fabric. There are four buttons at the cuffs of each sleeve. I chose a tone-on-tone gray lining. As already mentioned in connection with the corduroy suit for Brummer, I have been moving away from “funny” or overly eye-catching linings for a few years now. I always have the breast pocket positioned a little lower than the younger tailors suggest today. I find that the breast pocket sits far too high nowadays, following the clothing design.

I had the pants made with inward pleats and belt loops. The inside of the waistband is “English”. I wanted to wear the suit with a belt a year ago, but shortly before delivery I asked Dawid Kukliński to sew buttons for suspenders on the inside of the waistband. My weight is basically stable, but if I do more running in the spring I may lose a kilogram or two, then the pants with the belt would no longer hold. Apart from that, belted pants only hold really well on my body if the pants are very tight or sit low. The workmanship of the jacket and pants is very good.

My conclusion: A very good suit at a price that is below that of German or Austrian tailors. The price-performance ratio is therefore naturally very favorable. Dawid Kukliński speaks good English and has a good understanding of the customer’s wishes. He states that he is in Berlin every two months, from where he usually makes a detour to Leipzig. So if you order a part from him, you won’t have to wait too long.