In late summer 2023 Feine Herr visited Musella Dembech in Milan. Francesco Musella, born 1941, started his apprenticeship at the age of nine in Caserta. With his son Gianfrancesco he runs one of the ateliers Simon Crompton has championed for over a decade.
Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke suit from Dawid Kukliński in Berlin, cut from a mid-grey Holland & Sherry covert in the now-discontinued Dakota bundle, a cloth he had wanted to wear for more than twenty years.
Bernhard Roetzel introduces Mark Francis of Heron's Ghyll in London to Nathan Hellard of Maison Hellard and has a stand-up collar suit built from the 360 g black linen Palais Garnier in the Nuit parisienne collection.
After two single-breasted coats and three pairs of trousers, Bernhard Roetzel orders his first double-breasted from Salon Hartl in Prague, cut from a lightweight Italian herringbone with pleated fishback trousers.
Oxxford Clothes has made handmade suits in Chicago since 1916. Ben Mayer, the company's representative in Germany, talks about hand-padded lapels, chain-stitched armholes and how Oxxford compares to Brioni or Chester Barrie.
Bernhard Roetzel presents three suits for early summer 2020: a grey single-breasted from Anton Meyer in Hamburg, cut from Vitale Barberis Canonico worsted, plus two lighter pieces that also work casually.
Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Haspel: Bernhard Roetzel on the American roots of the seersucker suit, the puckered weave that traps cooling pockets of air, and why the fabric was so hard to find in Europe.
The American cotton sack suit, the Neapolitan linen from Rubinacci, the striped seersucker: Bernhard Roetzel walks through the summer-suit classics, with cuts, fabrics and the context that gave each its character.








