Luca Rubinacci, third generation of the Neapolitan house Rubinacci, runs his atelier in Milan. A crumpled Borsalino, 342,000 Instagram followers and an apprenticeship at Kilgour on Savile Row: a portrait of the style icon of bespoke culture.
In late summer 2023 Feine Herr visited Musella Dembech in Milan. Francesco Musella, born 1941, started his apprenticeship at the age of nine in Caserta. With his son Gianfrancesco he runs one of the ateliers Simon Crompton has championed for over a decade.
Bernhard Roetzel visits Enis Inci and Rovschan Gambarov at Sartoria Napoletana in Istanbul's Nişantaşı district, a classic menswear shop with green wallpaper and an English feel, run by two men with deep Italian connections.
Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke suit from Dawid Kukliński in Berlin, cut from a mid-grey Holland & Sherry covert in the now-discontinued Dakota bundle, a cloth he had wanted to wear for more than twenty years.
Munich-born master tailor Kathrin Emmer has been cutting bespoke suits in Potsdam for twenty years, for clients from across Germany. A visit to her studio in a quiet detached house near Griebnitzsee, the doorbell sign reads simply Emmer.
Bernhard Roetzel first heard of Liverano & Liverano in 1999 and visited the Florentine atelier shortly afterwards. On Antonio Liverano, the unpadded sloping shoulders and a style that stays out of the way of time.
From 31 July to 5 August 2023 the World Federation of Master Tailors held its biennial congress in Biella. Bernhard Roetzel talks to Alfredo de Giglio about the WFMT, founded in Brussels in 1865, and the state of the craft today.
Does a bespoke suit really fit perfectly and last forever? Bernhard Roetzel addresses the most common myths about custom clothing, from the idea of perfect fit to the timeless look and how long a Savile Row suit really holds up.
Bernhard Roetzel first noticed Polish bespoke tailor Dawid Kukliński in a Facebook group called Bespoke Forum and arranged a fitting in Berlin. A report on the linen jacket, the construction and the finished result.
After two single-breasted coats and three pairs of trousers, Bernhard Roetzel orders his first double-breasted from Salon Hartl in Prague, cut from a lightweight Italian herringbone with pleated fishback trousers.
Gaetano Aloisio is widely regarded as one of Italy's finest tailors. In an exclusive interview the Roman bespoke tailor speaks about precision, technical ambition and what Hugo Jacomet meant when he described his style as Roman.
After two fittings and a final inspection Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke sportscoat from James Whitfield in Berlin. A review of the finished jacket with photos by Tommi Aittala and a closing interview with the Anderson & Sheppard alumnus.
