Der Feine Herr
Der Feine HerrBernhard Roetzel's Online Magazine of Classical Menswear
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Shoemaker

Shoemaker

Bespoke shoes from Schuh Bertl

Bernhard Roetzel orders a double-stitched one-piece in the Haferl style from Munich specialist Schuh Bertl. The distinctive feature: the leather insole actively supports the foot, with no removable orthopaedic insert.
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InterviewShoemaker

Interview with bespoke shoemakers Wayman Bespoke

Frankfurt-based Simon Wegmann founded Wayman Bespoke to deliver bespoke shoes by post, without a single physical fitting. In our interview he explains how he takes the measurements, builds the trial shoe and ships it worldwide.
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HamburgShoemaker

Trunkshow with bespoke shoemaker Maftei in Hamburg

Bernhard Roetzel collects a new pair from Viennese bespoke shoemaker Lucian Maftei at the Campe & Ohff shirt shop in Hamburg. The fourth pair, built on a new Budapest-shaped last with stormwelt construction.
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Shoemaker

Bespoke shoes from Maftei. Part 3 — The shoes are finished

The third and final part of the Maftei bespoke-shoe report: Bernhard Roetzel collects his Derbies from Lucian Maftei in Vienna and weighs the speed of delivery, the chemistry with the maker, and the finished result.
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ShoemakerVienna

A pair of bespoke shoes from Maftei in Vienna —
Part 2: The Fitting

Wegen Corona verschoben, nun in Hamburg: Bernhard Roetzel probiert den Probierschuh von Maftei. Was bedeutet es, dass ein Schuh „passt“, und warum ist die Anprobe für Schuhmacher noch schwieriger als für Schneider?
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InterviewShoemaker

There will always be a customer for the classics — An interview with James Fox, Head of Marketing at Crockett & Jones

James Fox, head of marketing at the family-owned Crockett & Jones in Northampton, on running a shoe factory through the pandemic and on the steady demand for classics that has carried the firm through earlier storms too.
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InterviewShoemaker

Corona, cordovan and cobblers. A new interview with bespoke shoemaker Korbinian Ludwig Heß.

How is a bespoke shoemaker faring during the pandemic? Bernhard Roetzel meets Korbinian Ludwig Heß in his Berlin workshop and sees three new pairs of shoes, including a cordovan commission.
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ShoemakerVienna

A pair of bespoke shoes from Maftei in Vienna —
Part 1: The Order

Bernhard Roetzel orders his first pair of bespoke shoes from Maftei in Vienna, meeting Lucian Maftei at Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg. The Maftei family came from Romania in the 1980s, the workshop is still there, the trunk shows have toured Germany for over twenty years.
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InterviewShoemaker

Petru & Claymoor —
Bespoke shoes from Bucarest

Mircea Cioponea, the man behind the shoe blog Claymoorslist, has joined forces with shoemaker Petru Coca to open a bespoke atelier in Bucharest. An interview about Romania's Austro-Hungarian shoemaking heritage and the road to their own workshop.
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FlorenceShoemaker

Saskia Wittmer —
Bespoke shoes from Florence

Vivian Saskia Wittmer is the only female bespoke shoemaker in Florence, originally from Germany and at her workbench in Italy for over twenty years. A portrait of a craftswoman who skips the mystique and simply aims to make very good shoes.
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ShoemakerVienna

Scheer —
Bespoke shoemaker in Vienna

Markus Scheer im weißen Kittel, fast wie ein Arzt. Er führt die 1816 gegründete Wiener Maßschuhwerkstatt Scheer in Familienhand und erklärt im Interview, was es bedeutet, einen Fuß zu verstehen statt nur zu vermessen.
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