Der Feine Herr
Der Feine HerrBernhard Roetzel's Online Magazine of Classical Menswear
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Bespoke

Tailor

Bespoke linen jacket from Dawid Kukliński

Bernhard Roetzel first noticed Polish bespoke tailor Dawid Kukliński in a Facebook group called Bespoke Forum and arranged a fitting in Berlin. A report on the linen jacket, the construction and the finished result.
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HamburgShoemaker

Trunkshow with bespoke shoemaker Maftei in Hamburg

Bernhard Roetzel collects a new pair from Viennese bespoke shoemaker Lucian Maftei at the Campe & Ohff shirt shop in Hamburg. The fourth pair, built on a new Budapest-shaped last with stormwelt construction.
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Tailor

Roman excellence: Gaetano Aloisio

Gaetano Aloisio is widely regarded as one of Italy's finest tailors. In an exclusive interview the Roman bespoke tailor speaks about precision, technical ambition and what Hugo Jacomet meant when he described his style as Roman.
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Shoemaker

Bespoke shoes from Maftei. Part 3 — The shoes are finished

The third and final part of the Maftei bespoke-shoe report: Bernhard Roetzel collects his Derbies from Lucian Maftei in Vienna and weighs the speed of delivery, the chemistry with the maker, and the finished result.
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Tailor

James Whitfield Bespoke — Part 3: The final cloth

James Whitfield is the only Savile Row trained tailor running a bespoke business in Germany. In the third part of the series, Bernhard Roetzel watches him cut the final cloth for the sportscoat after two fittings.
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Shirts

Campe & Ohff —
Made-to-measure shirts with a discreet charme

Founded in 1995 by Friedrich von Schönfels, Christian Ohff and Christian von Campe, Campe & Ohff is Germany's only sizeable bespoke shirt manufactory. A portrait of the Hamburg house and a visit during a fitting.
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InterviewShoemaker

Interview with bespoke shoemakers Wayman Bespoke

Frankfurt-based Simon Wegmann founded Wayman Bespoke to deliver bespoke shoes by post, without a single physical fitting. In our interview he explains how he takes the measurements, builds the trial shoe and ships it worldwide.
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SuitsTailor

My first double-breasted suit from Salon Hartl

After two single-breasted coats and three pairs of trousers, Bernhard Roetzel orders his first double-breasted from Salon Hartl in Prague, cut from a lightweight Italian herringbone with pleated fishback trousers.
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LondonShirts

Budd Shirtmakers — Classics from London

Darren Tiernan, Senior Bespoke Cutter bei Budd Shirtmakers in Piccadilly Arcade an der Jermyn Street, im Interview über das House-Pattern, den hochgestellten Forward Collar und 36 Stiche auf dem Inch in der englischen Hemdenfertigung.
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InterviewTailor

James Whitfield Bespoke —
Part 4: The bespoke sporstscoat is finished

After two fittings and a final inspection Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke sportscoat from James Whitfield in Berlin. A review of the finished jacket with photos by Tommi Aittala and a closing interview with the Anderson & Sheppard alumnus.
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ShoemakerVienna

A pair of bespoke shoes from Maftei in Vienna —
Part 2: The Fitting

Wegen Corona verschoben, nun in Hamburg: Bernhard Roetzel probiert den Probierschuh von Maftei. Was bedeutet es, dass ein Schuh „passt“, und warum ist die Anprobe für Schuhmacher noch schwieriger als für Schneider?
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Tailor

James Whitfield Bespoke —
Part 2: Fitting

Erste Anprobe für Bernhard Roetzels Sportsakko bei James Whitfield in Berlin-Moabit, mit Maske und erstem Stadtbesuch nach Monaten. Mit dabei: Marie, die James als Schneiderin ausgebildet hat und seither bei ihm arbeitet.
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