From a pale blue oxford shirt to the tweed jacket as the Swiss army knife of the wardrobe: Bernhard Roetzel's ten essentials for the gentleman.
After two fittings and a final inspection Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke sportscoat from James Whitfield in Berlin. A review of the finished jacket with photos by Tommi Aittala and a closing interview with the Anderson & Sheppard alumnus.
Wegen Corona verschoben, nun in Hamburg: Bernhard Roetzel probiert den Probierschuh von Maftei. Was bedeutet es, dass ein Schuh „passt“, und warum ist die Anprobe für Schuhmacher noch schwieriger als für Schneider?
Erste Anprobe für Bernhard Roetzels Sportsakko bei James Whitfield in Berlin-Moabit, mit Maske und erstem Stadtbesuch nach Monaten. Mit dabei: Marie, die James als Schneiderin ausgebildet hat und seither bei ihm arbeitet.
Bernhard Roetzel orders his first pair of bespoke shoes from Maftei in Vienna, meeting Lucian Maftei at Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg. The Maftei family came from Romania in the 1980s, the workshop is still there, the trunk shows have toured Germany for over twenty years.
Mircea Cioponea, the man behind the shoe blog Claymoorslist, has joined forces with shoemaker Petru Coca to open a bespoke atelier in Bucharest. An interview about Romania's Austro-Hungarian shoemaking heritage and the road to their own workshop.
The third and final part of the Maftei bespoke-shoe report: Bernhard Roetzel collects his Derbies from Lucian Maftei in Vienna and weighs the speed of delivery, the chemistry with the maker, and the finished result.
James Whitfield is the only Savile Row trained tailor running a bespoke business in Germany. In the third part of the series, Bernhard Roetzel watches him cut the final cloth for the sportscoat after two fittings.
Founded in 1995 by Friedrich von Schönfels, Christian Ohff and Christian von Campe, Campe & Ohff is Germany's only sizeable bespoke shirt manufactory. A portrait of the Hamburg house and a visit during a fitting.
James Whitfield, trained in Savile Row at Anderson & Sheppard, runs his own bespoke business in Berlin-Moabit since 2019. Part 1 of the series: a Londoner with dry humour, a Brisbane Moss cloth and the start of a sportscoat commission.
Founded in Hamburg in 2012 by Marc Anthony and Max Meyer-Abich, Anton Meyer sits stylistically between late-eighties Hackett and SuitSupply. Italian cut, German figure, suits sewn in Portugal, an „Ingmar BF“ at 485 euros and the „Helmut Blau“ shirt at 95.
Maximilian Mogg has run his Berlin bespoke atelier at Bleibtreustraße 27 in Charlottenburg since 2018. A portrait of a German tailor who would blend in on Savile Row and stands out in Berlin as the country's most talked-about bespoke designer.
