Over two years ago, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from Schuh-Bertl, the Munich-based specialist for welted and double-stitched footwear. Due to the pandemic, the fitting was delayed and the finished shoes were never delivered. I simply couldn’t find a date when I could have traveled to Munich with Tommi Aittala or Martin Smolka. When Bertl called me a few weeks ago to invite me to a trade fair in Berlin, the opportunity for a handover appointment with Tommi Aittala had arrived.
The shoes had already fitted very well when we tried them on in Munich.
Bertl was only dissatisfied with the fit on the underside of the foot.
A special feature of Bertl’s bespoke shoes is that the insole supports the foot.
However, this is not due to a removable insole made of foam rubber, as is usually the case with orthopaedically trained bespoke shoemakers, but solely due to the traditionally processed insole made of leather.
As a rule, the insole of custom-made shoes is flat, similar to welted shoes from industrial production.
With a bespoke shoe from Bertl, however, you can clearly feel it under your foot.
This takes some getting used to.
Bertl recommends that new customers go through an acclimatization phase.
When trying on the shoes, Bertl’s typical fit was not yet noticeable.
He therefore wanted to work on the shoe.
So I was excited to see the finished pair.
We had agreed on a double-stitched one-piece in the style of a Haferl shoe.
I opted for rubber for the outsole as I want to wear the shoes in all weathers.
I have also preferred a sole with more cushioning for several years.
The last of the bespoke shoe that he made for me is longer, narrower and more elegant than Bertl’s ready-to-wear oat shoes.
This makes the shoe look more elegant overall, despite its sporty, rustic basic character.
The low cut under the ankle and the slightly higher heel are typical Bertl features.
We met at Bertl’s stand, where he was presenting his latest shoe collection. We then tried on the shoes in the anonymity of the public. At the stands, everyone was looking after themselves or their customers, we were not noticed. It was only when I walked around with the shoes on my feet that they attracted the attention of exhibitors and visitors.
Bertl helped me slip in. Bertl was pleased with the sound it made.
The shoes felt good when seated. The length and width were very comfortable, and there was a slight pressure on my right little toe. As I stood on my feet, Bertl bent down and felt the position of my toes. Then he let me walk around. I noticed how the soft calfskin warmed up and molded itself more and more to my foot. We considered whether Bertl should stretch the shoe a little on the little toe, but then we decided that I should wear the shoes properly first.
The fit at the bottom of the shoe is unusual at first, as the insole follows the shape of the arch of the foot exactly and fills it completely. Bertl knows that many customers find this uncomfortable at first, as shoes never fit like this. However, I found this fit to be normal after just a few minutes. I’m sure there are custom shoe wearers who don’t like it.
It is a fundamental question as to whether it makes sense to support the foot from below. Some shoemakers say that a healthy arch of the foot does not need any support; in their opinion, a footbed in Bertl’s style even leads to the foot muscles being weakened. Others, including Bertl, believe that a supportive footbed is important. He even makes his own summer sandals with a footbed.
Bertl invited us for a light lunch near his stand, after which we went out into the street to take more photos. I wore the shoes, of course. After thirty minutes, I couldn’t feel the shoes at all, I could hardly feel any pressure on my little toe.
Bertl checked the fit again with his fingertips and advised a little patience when fitting. In principle, however, he also believes that a custom-made shoe should fit right from the start. However, you should still break in a bespoke shoe – how long depends on the upper leather, the type of outsole and the style. A double-stitched cowhide ankle boot with a double leather sole is much harder and less flexible to begin with than a light, welted loafer made of suede.
I have worn the shoes several times since receiving them, each time a little longer. The shoes are now very comfortable. When cleaning them, I make sure that I don’t dye the white stitching. I don’t normally like contrast stitching, but the white stitching goes very well with these shoes. Bertl also advised me not to color them when cleaning.
Today, Bertl concentrates on his ready-to-wear collections; he makes bespoke shoes much less often than he used to. But he still makes them. Although he doesn’t advertise them at all at the moment, a lot of bespoke shoes still leave his workshop. Some customers have been coming to him for several decades, but he also makes shoes for young people. Stylistically, he is very flexible, Bertl makes all models. His specialty is genuine one-piece models.
If you want to get an overview of Bertl’s work, we recommend his book on the Haferlschuh. It contains very detailed drawings and photos of the manufacturing process of made-to-measure shoes in various styles. You can order the book directly from Bertl.
