Bernhard Roetzel collects a new pair from Viennese bespoke shoemaker Lucian Maftei at the Campe & Ohff shirt shop in Hamburg. The fourth pair, built on a new Budapest-shaped last with stormwelt construction.
Oxxford Clothes has made handmade suits in Chicago since 1916. Ben Mayer, the company's representative in Germany, talks about hand-padded lapels, chain-stitched armholes and how Oxxford compares to Brioni or Chester Barrie.
Gaetano Aloisio is widely regarded as one of Italy's finest tailors. In an exclusive interview the Roman bespoke tailor speaks about precision, technical ambition and what Hugo Jacomet meant when he described his style as Roman.
Darren Tiernan, Senior Bespoke Cutter bei Budd Shirtmakers in Piccadilly Arcade an der Jermyn Street, im Interview über das House-Pattern, den hochgestellten Forward Collar und 36 Stiche auf dem Inch in der englischen Hemdenfertigung.
Covert coat, Chesterfield, Ulster, duffle coat, loden: the classic winter coats of the men's wardrobe, and which coat suits which occasion.
The third and final part of the Maftei bespoke-shoe report: Bernhard Roetzel collects his Derbies from Lucian Maftei in Vienna and weighs the speed of delivery, the chemistry with the maker, and the finished result.
After two single-breasted coats and three pairs of trousers, Bernhard Roetzel orders his first double-breasted from Salon Hartl in Prague, cut from a lightweight Italian herringbone with pleated fishback trousers.
Victor Besnard runs his Parisian shirt label around the buttondown collar, the one Brooks Brothers introduced in New York. An interview about the Polo collar, soft-roll construction and why a shirt should last for years.
Born in Sri Lanka, based in Düsseldorf since 1997, Ignatious Joseph is one of the foremost shirt designers in menswear. He talks about his style, the legacy of British dress in the tropics and why experience is the only teacher.
From a pale blue oxford shirt to the tweed jacket as the Swiss army knife of the wardrobe: Bernhard Roetzel's ten essentials for the gentleman.
The Potsdam tailor Kathrin Emmer shows how to press a suit at home: the damp cloth, the order of work, and why the lapels must roll.
After two fittings and a final inspection Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke sportscoat from James Whitfield in Berlin. A review of the finished jacket with photos by Tommi Aittala and a closing interview with the Anderson & Sheppard alumnus.
