A handsome shoe or a comfortable one? Bernhard Roetzel clears up the legends about bespoke shoes, from the idea of perfect comfort to whether form and function rule each other out.
Jacket, suit, coat or trousers? For a first bespoke commission Bernhard Roetzel recommends a jacket, with arguments on cloth choice, versatility, and whether you go to a tailor for a special occasion or to fill a gap in the wardrobe.
How long should a jacket sleeve be? How high should the trousers sit? Bernhard Roetzel explains the basic rules of a good fit, from off-the-peg sizing to the belly cut and the right trouser length.
The first fitting is pure tension, for customer and tailor alike. Bernhard Roetzel sits in on a fitting with Markus Schnurr in a Stuttgart flat and describes what happens when the half-finished suit is on the body for the first time.
A famous house or an affordable newcomer? Bernhard Roetzel explains what first-time clients should look for when choosing a bespoke tailor, why price says little about quality, and how much the maker's own appearance really matters.
