Does a bespoke suit really fit perfectly and last forever? Bernhard Roetzel addresses the most common myths about custom clothing, from the idea of perfect fit to the timeless look and how long a Savile Row suit really holds up.
Bernhard Roetzel first noticed Polish bespoke tailor Dawid Kukliński in a Facebook group called Bespoke Forum and arranged a fitting in Berlin. A report on the linen jacket, the construction and the finished result.
After two single-breasted coats and three pairs of trousers, Bernhard Roetzel orders his first double-breasted from Salon Hartl in Prague, cut from a lightweight Italian herringbone with pleated fishback trousers.
Gaetano Aloisio is widely regarded as one of Italy's finest tailors. In an exclusive interview the Roman bespoke tailor speaks about precision, technical ambition and what Hugo Jacomet meant when he described his style as Roman.
After two fittings and a final inspection Bernhard Roetzel collects his bespoke sportscoat from James Whitfield in Berlin. A review of the finished jacket with photos by Tommi Aittala and a closing interview with the Anderson & Sheppard alumnus.
James Whitfield is the only Savile Row trained tailor running a bespoke business in Germany. In the third part of the series, Bernhard Roetzel watches him cut the final cloth for the sportscoat after two fittings.
Erste Anprobe für Bernhard Roetzels Sportsakko bei James Whitfield in Berlin-Moabit, mit Maske und erstem Stadtbesuch nach Monaten. Mit dabei: Marie, die James als Schneiderin ausgebildet hat und seither bei ihm arbeitet.
James Whitfield, trained in Savile Row at Anderson & Sheppard, runs his own bespoke business in Berlin-Moabit since 2019. Part 1 of the series: a Londoner with dry humour, a Brisbane Moss cloth and the start of a sportscoat commission.
Over years of fittings, customer and tailor often grow close. Sometimes the relationship turns into friendship. Bernhard Roetzel weighs whether that is good for the work or quietly gets in its way.
Maximilian Mogg has run his Berlin bespoke atelier at Bleibtreustraße 27 in Charlottenburg since 2018. A portrait of a German tailor who would blend in on Savile Row and stands out in Berlin as the country's most talked-about bespoke designer.
Tailoring was never an English invention. Bernhard Roetzel introduces the German bespoke scene, why its decline began earlier than elsewhere, and which tailors and shoemakers in Germany still deserve discovery abroad.
Two fittings are the rule in bespoke tailoring. What tailors look for at the first fitting, with sleeves or without, and where made-to-measure differs.
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