Luca Rubinacci, third generation of the Neapolitan house Rubinacci, runs his atelier in Milan. A crumpled Borsalino, 342,000 Instagram followers and an apprenticeship at Kilgour on Savile Row: a portrait of the style icon of bespoke culture.
In late summer 2023 Feine Herr visited Musella Dembech in Milan. Francesco Musella, born 1941, started his apprenticeship at the age of nine in Caserta. With his son Gianfrancesco he runs one of the ateliers Simon Crompton has championed for over a decade.
Bernhard Roetzel orders a double-stitched one-piece in the Haferl style from Munich specialist Schuh Bertl. The distinctive feature: the leather insole actively supports the foot, with no removable orthopaedic insert.
Bernhard Roetzel visits Enis Inci and Rovschan Gambarov at Sartoria Napoletana in Istanbul's Nişantaşı district, a classic menswear shop with green wallpaper and an English feel, run by two men with deep Italian connections.
During Pitti Uomo in January 2024 Bernhard Roetzel watches Pascal Zimmer of Luxembourg, of the outfitter Basics and Bespoke, try on his bespoke shoes by Vivian Saskia Wittmer. On the fitting as a small ceremony between maker and customer.
Three years after the first visit, Bernhard Roetzel returns to Milanese shirt tailor Alessandro Siniscalchi for new fittings and new shirts. Nothing has changed in the studio: hand-stitched throughout, the fit refined at every fitting.
Antica Barbieria Colla was founded in 1904 by Dino Colla and has been at Via Gerolamo Morone, just behind La Scala, since 1943. Hot towels to finish a shave and Marseille-soap shampoos: two Milanese inventions still in use at the address today.
Mick Möller runs the Hanover menswear outfitter Mick's with a classic range reinterpreted for today. In our interview he talks about growing up in his parents' shop, his passion for rock 'n' roll and his path into the trade.
Ignatious Joseph, one of the world's best-known shirt designers, on the yellow shirt boxes, the multicoloured shirts with their wide high collar, and the red bespoke shoes he tells people, with a straight face, are from Aldi.
Anna Falkenhagen opened her Hamburg hat store in Schanzenstraße in 1916. Today her great-grandchildren Sabine and Jens Falkenhagen run the business in the fourth generation on Schauenburger Straße, a few minutes from the town hall.
In Part 2 Bernhard Roetzel orders a Tracht-style suit at Lorenz Ganter in Ismaning, cut from Jägerleinen by Leichtfried Loden, with the Bavarian jacket pattern and high-waisted trousers in the style of the 1920s.
Bernhard Roetzel visits Lorenz Ganter, the Tracht specialist in Ismaning near Munich. Dieter Ganter, grandson of the founder, runs the workshop where six seamstresses build Bavarian suits for customers across Germany.
